All Points North
People of all ages take on their sewing machines to make and mend their own clothes
Story and photo by Eva Mizer
Diana Murray is milling about her first-floor sewing store. It’s
Monday night, and time for her weekly sewing class. Even before they
arrive, she has a lot on her mind. "See this box?" she asks, pointing
to a box on the floor filled with various garments, "a woman went
through all of her clothes and brought in the ones that didn’t fit
right so I could alter them for her." Over the box, a huge machine
rattles and shakes. It’s an embroidery machine; a massive, serious
piece of sewing convention that now works away at embroidering an
apron. "I need two done for Wednesday," she explains.
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A tape measure waits patiently to be used in a project. |
Growing up, Murray was surrounded by her grandmother and mother who
sewed very often. While she attended college, her desire to make her
own clothes inspired her to minor in home-education. Later, when she
married a military man, she would travel around with him, taking sewing
classes anywhere she went. "You can always find something new," she
explains with a smile.
"Now it's more expensive to make your own clothes," she explains.
Rampant globalization and monopolization of the clothing industry
has led to multiple problems for people wanting to make their own
clothes. "Companies have gone under in the fabric industry," Murray
sighs. Stream-Line Button, Atlanta Textile Co., and Landell Warren Co.
each have faced financial difficulty in the coming years. "Streamline
Button just declared bankruptcy about two years ago," she explains,
"and Atlanta Textile Co. was a good supplier of fabric, but they can't
make a living that way anymore."
Since manufacturers moved across seas, importing fabric into the
country makes it more expensive for consumers to buy. "Now it's more
expensive to make your own clothes," she explains. But the high cost
goes hand in hand with quality. When American companies and factories
shut down and moved overseas to hire cheap labor, they routinely choose
cheaper, lower quality fabrics to make their clothes with. To avoid
this entrapment of both lack of quality and originality, many people
are turning back to the tradition of sewing their own clothes. However,
different generations handle this ongoing cycle differently.
"I see a lot more people starting to sew now," she pipes from her sewing machine.
When Murray was young, most people made their own clothes because
buying them in department stores was too expensive. "You would only buy
one or two outfits a year," Murray recalls, so making one's own clothes
was not only a priority, but almost a given. Now, she explains, most
people don't even know how to sew a button back on their shirts. People
from Murray's generation come to her wanting to learn to do simple
fixes and alterations to patterns. One of Murray's students is 83 year
old woman is currently attending her lessons to learn to alter her
clothes. Once, a pilot once came to her asking her to teach him how to
sew a button on so he wouldn't have to run to the tailors every time
one came loose or fell off. Aside from the button sewers and
alteration-makers, most of her older students are more or less
hobbyists.
Racheal Hooper and Gyllian Rae Svensson of The Bobbin Sew Bar and Craft Lounge
of Burlington, Vermont, have noticed an upsurge in people taking sewing
classes to make their own clothes. "We absolutely have noticed an
upsurge in interest among the younger generations to rediscover these
lost arts," Svensson says, "we teach classes to boys and girls, men and
women and everyone else from age eight and up."
The Bobbin, based on the outskirts of Burlington, is an eco-friendly
shop dedicated to being engaged in their community. The shop hosts
weekly private lessons, group EcoSew workshops, community outreach in
schools and nonprofits, design and host private parties, events such as
Craft With The Band, and fundraisers for non-profits. The Bobbin,
promoting sustainable crafting, only uses recycled and vintage
materials for classes, workshops and custom product lines.
Amanda Prenoveau works on her sewing while Pedro, Murrays French poodle, watches. |
A girl in Murray's class looks up. "I see a lot more people starting
to sew now," she pipes from her sewing machine. Her name is Amanda
Prenoveau and she is a senior in high school. She pulls out a bundle of
blue denim fabric from her colored bag and lays it out. Murray helps
pin a paper pattern for pants onto the fabric for her to cut around.
She explains that a lot of girls she knows have taken up sewing to
learn the simple fixes and to alter or design something to make it
unique.
Often times, the styles in stores look the same as stores compete
for business of the current fashion. However, if a style doesn't work
for someone, that person is out of luck, which is why many girls learn
to sew to make a custom fit or their own designs. "People are looking
for a fashion [outlet], Prenoveau explains, as a way to express
themselves through their wardrobe.
"You can see it all over the Web," Svensson says in regard to the
growing demand for such an outlet, "[you can see it] in communities
such as Etsy and Artfire, [as well as] local Craft Mafias."
"...my students new to sewing are often shocked by the details,
mathematics and complexities involved in the creation of a piece of
clothing."
Although gaining widespread popularity, sewing is not something that
can be picked up without practice. "We're just altering patterns right
now," Murray explains about Prenoveaus work. Prenoveau just started
sewing in the beginning of summer, but has already been to a fashion
school in New York City and plans to continue her education in fashion
design. She dreams of making her own designs and patterns, but for now
she is taking it slow and learning the basics.
"Americans are really out of touch with the basics of clothing
construction and fabrication," Svensson explains. "We have no knowledge
or respect for how long it takes to create an article of clothing and
the skills involved, and my students new to sewing are often shocked by
the details, mathematics and complexities involved in the creation of a
piece of clothing."
Sewing is an art that can be sculpted and a skill that can be honed.
What used to be a general part of every-day life has transformed into
an essential skill that many have taken up to customize, create, and
fix their own clothes. But no matter what the age or skill-level,
Murray winks, "There is always something new to learn."
Do you sew? What do you sew?
